Sauk County Gardener: Time to prune trees
“A tree which has lost its head will never recover it again, and will survive only as a monument of the ignorance and folly of its Tormentor.” ~George William Curtis
At our house, my husband and I tend to divide up our gardening tasks and with that, who gets to make the decisions as to what is being planted and how it’s maintained. He manages the trees, shrubs and grass; I manage the perennial and vegetable beds. The tasks overlap from time to time and we both provide input into each other’s areas, but this general division of tasks is a process that works well for us. Plus, I love it when I get to add to his task list and at this time of year its tree pruning.
There are good reasons to prune trees: To control a tree’s size or shape, help flowering/fruiting, maintain tree health and remove a safety hazard to people or property. If you are pruning to control a tree’s size or shape, always remember that a plant’s natural form is truly best. You can prune any unwanted waterspouts, suckers or branches that detract from the plant’s appearance. You should also prune dead or dying branches due to disease or damage from insects, animals, or storms and any branches that rub together. In all cases, avoid topping a tree as it will increase the chance of limbs breaking and poor branch structure. With ornamental or fruit trees, you may need to prune to promote flowering or fruit development. You should also prune weak or narrow-angled tree branches that overhang your home, sidewalk or other places where people or property could be harmed by fallen branches.
The best time to prune for most deciduous tree is when it’s dormant, typically November through March because: (1) The fresh wounds are only open for a short time before new spring growth will begin, (2) It’s easier to see what to cut and make decisions without the leaves and (3) It can help avoid certain diseases such as oak wilt, stem cankers and fireblight as insects and other disease-causing organisms are not active. Prune oak trees between November and April. As a rule of thumb, trees that bloom on new growth should be pruned in the late dormant season. This isn’t always the case, so double check before pruning.
Branches to remove:
· Diseased, broken, or dead branches and stubs
· Downward-turning branches
· Competing leaders
· Crossing or rubbing branches, (remove one complete at its base)
· Suckers and waterspouts (vigorous, vertical branches)
· Limbs along the trunk that are larger than then trunk in diameter
General pruning guidelines:
· Prune large limbs first, starting at the top.
· Make pruning cuts close to the branch collar at the base of the tree.
· To shorten a branch, cut it back to a side branch or make a cut 1/4 inch above an outside bud to encourage growth to the outside of the tree.
· Use the three-point cut method to safely remove it if it is a larger branch. The document “Pruning Deciduous Trees” has an excellent diagram that shows clearly how to prune larger limbs.
For new trees (established less than two years), only prune diseased, broken, or dead branches. For young trees (two to five years), prune to promote a well-shaped canopy and remove lower branches if you wish to raise the canopy. Also inspect and select scaffold branches to keep only those that are 12-18 inches apart and evenly distributed. Remove multiple leaders on evergreens and other trees where a single leader is desired. Try to remove no more than 25 percent of the branches at one time. Pruning young trees can help prevent future problems so your older, established trees should not require much pruning if they were pruned properly when young. Hire a professional if branches are too large or near power lines. A professional can also help with crown thinning (to increase light penetration and air movement), crown raising (removing lower limbs for more clearance), crown reduction (to reduce height) and crown cleaning (to removing dead, dying and diseased branches).
Use the proper tools for pruning to make the job easier and minimize tree damage. Tools should be sharp and in good-working condition. The right cutting tool will be determined by the diameter of the branch. Pruning shears can be used on branches up to 3/4-inch diameter. Loping shears can typically cut up to 1 1/2-inch diameter branches due to their long handles providing greater leverage. Hand saws can be used on branches over one inch in diameter. Pole saws offer a longer reach but realize it’s harder to get a clean cut. A small chainsaw can used for larger branches. With any of these tools, use the necessary protective gear and take extra care if a ladder is involved.
For additional information on pruning and caring for trees, check out these documents from the University of Wisconsin Madison Division of Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-deciduous-trees/, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-evergreens/ and https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0145/8808/4272/files/A1817.pdf. This is also a good reference guide from the Wisconsin DNRL https://p.widencdn.net/qzqm8z/Proper-Tree-Pruning-Brochure---FR-256.
Remember to contact Extension Sauk County if you have any gardening questions. Please send an email to haley.weisert@saukcountywi.gov or call the University of Wisconsin Madison Division of Extension Sauk County office at 608-355-3250.
Jeannie Manis is president of the Sauk County Master Gardeners Association (SCMGA).
